Knit Maxi Dress – McCall’s Pattern 6697


Professor Pincushion: Welcome to Professor
Pincushion. In this tutorial we are going to be doing McCall’s pattern 6697. Now in
this particular pattern, there are two size groupings. So you want to make sure you get
the right size and you can check it out by looking at the side right here and you can
see the size is listed. Now in this tutorial we are going to be doing version D which is
the longer dress that you can see hear on the envelope. Now if you decide that you want
to do B or C you can also follow on most of the steps with us. The only difference is, in ours we are not
going to be putting in sleeves like you can see in view C. Now let’s take a look at an
example of the dress that we are going to be making in this tutorial. This is the dress
that we are going to be making in the tutorial and since we are doing view D, it’s a little
bit longer than what we can see on camera. Now we are also going to be doing a demonstration
on how to create and put in the sleeve. So if you are interested in doing view C, you
can go ahead and see our tutorial on that as well. Now it’s made out of a net fabric, so it
means it’s stretchy and there will be no fasteners in this dress. So we don’t have
to worry about zippers or buttons or anything of that nature. So a nice dress, it just pulls
over the top and fits very comfortably and flares out at the bottom. So this is a nice
simple dress, but it’s very classy looking with the style. So let’s now take a look
at the back of the pattern envelope. Next we need to figure out what size we are, so
we know which pattern to cut out and then also how much fabric to get. Now the retail
size and the pattern size is not the same number. So that’s why it’s always important to consult
the patterns. You can figure out what size you are going to be for that particular pattern.
And you can find that by looking at the body measurements chart and this is found on the
top flap of the envelope. So the numbers that are here at the top, these are the sizes for
the pattern and then underneath here we are have bust, waist and hip. These are all measurements
that go with each size. So for example if I am looking at my bust
measurement and these are all in inches, you are going to find which one is closest to
you, then for the waist and for the hips and whatever column fits up, that’s the size
that you are going to be. So for example, I am going to be doing a size 12. Now if you
need help on taking your body measurements and figuring out what size you are going to
be, definitely consult our tutorial on how to take your own body measurements. Now we consult at the back of the pattern
envelope to figure out how much fabric we are going to need. So you are going to have
your size in mind and then you are going to look up here and you are going to see all
of the sizes and then anything under your size that’s how much fabric you are going
to get. Over here on the left you are going to see
A, B, C and The, these are different dress views. So I am doing view D, so I would only
have to look at this box here and then kind of ignore these other boxes. Now to figure
out what kind of fabric to use you can see right down here they have suggested fabric.
So they are saying Jersey, interlock, knits. So you need to use a fabric that has a stretch
to it, if you get a cotton or a fabric with no stretch it’s not going to work for this
pattern. This is very important. Now to test and make sure your fabric has
enough stretch, if you look up here at the top of the envelope they have this little
nifty thing for us to use. So if you have a four-inch piece and you are holding it right
here, you take this end, you stretch it, at least needs to stretch to this end here. I
am holding it on this side and I am just stretching it from this end and making sure that it at
least gets to this point. If you can do that with your fabric then you are going to be
fine. Okay so back to how much fabric we are going
to need. So remember how I said you find your size and you just scroll down and then you
can figure out how much fabric you need. Well in my case you don’t see it listed under
here. So this means for my particular case, if I am doing view D, it doesn’t matter what
size you are doing, with for 60 inch with fabric I am going to need one and 7/8th yards. So it doesn’t matter if I am doing six 6
or size 22, everybody is going to need 1 and 7/8ths. Now this view uses two different fabrics.
You have your main fabric, the 1 and 7/8ths and then there is a contrasting fabric which
is also 60 inch in width and they are asking one and 5/8ths. So you need to make sure you
get this fabric and then you get a contrasting fabric for this one. Again this is for all
sizes. Okay so now we are going to pull out our instruction sheets from the envelope and
on the first page you are going to see something like this. So this is going to be a picture of all the
different views again and again we are doing view D and if we just look below that what
you are going to see is this handy chart which is a layout of all the different pattern pieces
that are included this envelope. You will see the pattern pieces and then you will see
a number with it. Now down here we have a listing and these numbers correspond to the
pattern piece. So number one is the middle front. Now this is the dress A, B, C and D.
So they are basically showing you all of the pattern pieces for A, B, C and D. So if it
doesn’t have anything listed behind it, like this is middle, front and it doesn’t have
an A, B, C or D. That means it’s for all of these. So it doesn’t
matter which one you are doing, you are going to need to cut out piece number one, same
thing with number two. Now here you see 2A extension D. So that means only if you are
doing view D will you need to cut out this piece and it’s very important because we
are going to add this to piece number two and you can see it right here is 2 and 2E. We are going to actually attach them to make
one long piece because it’s a long dress. So what I will like to do is I would like
to put a little check mark next to each one that I know that I need to cut out so then
I don’t accidentally cut out something that I don’t need. Like you can see right here
for number 9, there is an A behind here. So I am not doing view A, so I don’t need to
cut out 9 and I am also not doing a sleeve. So I don’t need to cut out 12. But everything
else for view D, I am going to have to cut out. Pulling out the tissue paper, you are going
to see all your pattern pieces. And they all have numbers like this one does here and these
numbers then correspond to the same numbers here. So if you mark it off that you need
to cut out piece number 8, well this is piece number 8 right here. Now you will see, there
will be a series of lines here with these dashes that are different links. Each of these lines is a different size. And
you can see right here is 6, 8, 10 and 12. So you just need to find out what size you
are and then you are cut the line above that size. So I did a size 12, so my line is kind
of cut off right here, there in cut right on — either right on top of the line or just
right outside the line. So then if I was going to do a size 6,
I would do this line right here. If you have a line that has no number next to it and it’s
just a solid line, that means it’s for all sizes, so you would cut it out, not matter
what size you are doing. Now you will see we have this little triangles
here. These are notches, so I have a single notch here and then I have a double notch
and a double notch. These are important for when you are placing your pieces together.
So you definitely want to make some sort of indication. Now you can do whatever you want
in order that you will know that there is a notch there. But you will see that I like
to cut outwards and if it’s a double notch I just flatten the top here. So I know the
difference between a double notch and if it’s a single notch it’s just a little triangle
on the outside there. Now you can also if you want, you can cut into the tissue paper
and create the little notch if you want. Again whatever you need to do in order to
make sure that you know it’s there. Now you will see this triangle right here. On the
inside of the pattern piece, if you see something like this, this is not a notch. This is going
to be a mark of some kind. So you don’t have to worry about doing some sort of mark like
this. We will just leave this and tell we have our fabric cut out. If you are doing
view D, some of your pattern pieces are going to have extension pieces. You are going to
have to tape two pieces together and then cut out the pattern piece as a whole. So one of this example is going to be piece
number two. And you will see at the bottom of piece two, you have a line with all these
little dots all over them. If we look at extension to A, you will also see the same thing. So
all they want you to do is you can roughly cut out both pieces, then you are going to
match each of these dots, so the 2 As right on top of 2 and these are lining up. Then
you can go ahead tape it down and then go ahead and cut out your size that you need.
Now I would also consult the McCall’s product page for this pattern and look for your size,
the finished length of the dress. They give a finished length from the base
of your neck down to the hemline of the dress. If you are like me, where you tend to be on
the short side or you tend to be on the tall side, you definitely want to consult this
because for my — in my example, the dress ends up being a little long. So at this point,
after you cut your pattern pieces, you can decide if you want to shorten the dress. Now
if you look at the bottom of the hemline of the pieces, it will say lengthen or shorten
here. So from this point you can go ahead and shorten
it if you need to or you can add some on the bottom if you want to make it longer. Just
make sure that you do it for all the pieces that have a hemline and you know that because
this is lengthen or shorten here at the bottom. Now if you are doing one of the other views,
let me just move this down. We have here, cut here for A, B and C because they are also
using piece number two. But since they are doing a short dress, they are going to go
ahead and cut on this line. And again this is the hem right here and then lengthen or
shorten here if for whatever reason you want to lengthen or shorten the short version of
this dress. So that’s just something you want to pay
attention to before you go ahead and cut everything out of your fabric, just to save yourself
a little bit of time. After your pattern pieces are cut out, then we can move on to cutting
out our fabric. But please make sure that pre-treat your fabric before you cut out your
pattern pieces. So then you can get out all the pre-shrinking first and not have to worry
about after you made your garment. So letÃs take a look. Now you will see on the top of
page two, it has dress D. So this is the one we need to look at, on
the front page at the bottom is for all the other views. Now you will see here we have
dress D and then we have contrast D. So these are all for view D, we just have one out of
our main fabric and then one out of our contrasting fabric. And you can see up here at the top,
it says what pattern pieces it’s using and then they also list the pattern pieces inside
these shapes here. So because it’s says selvage and selvage, what this is meaning is that
you are going to take your fabric, the full 60 inches and whatever length it is and you
are going to open it up. So it’s a single layer fabric all flat. Make
sure that none of it is hanging off the table or it’s not being stretched in any way because
this is knit. We want to make sure that it is lying flat and it’s not going to get distorted
when we are cutting it out. So here for the main fabric, we need to cut out piece 6 plus
remember we have the extension taped on, piece two also with the extension and then you will
see, 10, 10, 8 and 4. Now ten is twice. That’s because we need two pieces of piece number
10. These ones here, we only need one. But if ten, we need two of them. Now you will
see this one, is kind of shaded and this one is not. This is telling us that when you pin
number ten, you have the printed side facing up. If it’s white, like these are white,
that means that the pattern piece is upright and all the writing is right side and you
are looking at the writing. This side, we are shaded, that means after you cut it out,
you take the pattern piece off, you place it down again, but you place it upside so
the print of the pattern pieces is going down towards the fabric. So this is right side of pattern, this is
wrong side pattern. So that’s how you get two of them, but we just — why we flip this
one upside down, the pattern piece at least is because we want to make sure that they
are the same piece, but they are opposite. So then once you have all those cut out and
again you are just going to place your pins and for knit, I like to use ballpoint pens.
It seems to work a little bit better. So I place my pins parallel to the edge of my pattern
pieces and then I cut right along my size line again. Here we have the contrasting,
so now this is going to be my other fabric. Again selvage, selvage. So we are going to
lay it all out nice and flat, single layer and then we are kind of cut out 5, 1, 7, 3
and 11, 11. So this is just like with ten. Print side
facing up, print side facing down and then go ahead and cut out all your pieces. After
cutting out your fabric pieces, it’s a good idea just to keep your pattern pieces pinned
to your fabric pieces, just put in a couple of pins. That way when we are going through
the directions, we know exactly which pieces we are going to need to work with. You can,
we can either say, oh we needed to have piece number 8 or if we say upper left back piece,
which is right here below the number. Also don’t forget to transfer any marks you
have to your fabric pieces, either with chalk or a fabric pin or some sort of indication.
There are many different ways it might be a square, it might be a triangle, it might
be a dot or a circle. You just need to find the one that has your size and then make sure
you transfer that to the wrong side. So usually what I do is I find my size and size 12, put
a pin through it and then I flip it over to the wrong side. Here is my pencil right here
and then I just make a mark here. So I did for this one and I would do it for this one.
Now some of them might have a series of dots and I will say for A only. So if you are not doing view A, you don’t
have to worry about that particular, say if it’s just a circle or a square and it doesn’t
have any letter next to it, it usually means it’s for all views. All right, so now we
are getting ready to sew and the next thing I like to look at is the fabric information
I have here. So this is going to help us read the picture directions we have here, this
fabric key. So you will see here we have the shaded, white, polka dot and then shaded with
lines and then white with lines. So the nice thing is we don’t have to worry about these
three because we are not using lining or interfacing for these particular dresses, so that’s nice. But here, this just means if you see something
that’s shaded, you are looking at the right side of the fabric. And if you just see a
white, that means you are looking at the wrong side of the fabric. So if we were to use this
as an example, this is going to be the wrong side of the fabric. So we are kind of looking
at the inside of the garment here. This little bit right here, where you are looking the
seam that’s pressed flat, that is the right side of the garment. So its just makes it a little bit easier when
you are trying to read and figure out what’s going on in the picture. Also nice seam allowance,
it’s going to be 5/8ths of an inch. So I always try to find that out right from the
start. So if it’s going to be something different, it’s going to say in the directions, if we
need to change it, but if it doesn’t say then we always assume it’s going to 5/8ths.
If we look up here, at the top, we are going to get started with our directions and these
directions are for all views but then you look down here and it will say view A. So if you are doing, for example we are doing
view D, we can go ahead and skip one and we just scroll down until we see ours right down
here, views B, C and D. So then we can go ahead and start with this one. So we are going
to get started and putting our dress together. The first step for view D is step number three,
stitch middle front to front, press seam allowance toward front. So what we are going to do is
you are going to need piece one and piece two. So I have them here. And I actually have them, we are going to
remove this one, so I am moving one and moving two and these are pretty long. So we can’t
see the whole thing. As you will notice that and I have it wrong side facing up on both
of them. So this is the wrong side and this is the
wrong side. Right side is down towards the table. So you will see here I have single
notch, single notch and then I have a double notch over here. On this piece over here,
single notch, single notch and then I have another single notch over here. So at the
sides I have the two single notches, this side and this side, they are going to go together.
So this is going to start here, just going to move this down a little bit because we
are going to pin these two pieces together. Now you will always pin right side to right
side. So the right side is down towards the table,
so all I am going to do is flip this over, so now I have the right side facing up. And
I am going to have this and now I have the right side down here. So all I am going to
do is just lay it on top, the right side of the black. So the single notches are matching
and I am going to pin all along this right edge here. We are not going to do anything
with this edge or this edge right now. And again I like using the ballpoint pens because
that really helps to make sure that your notches all match and then you are going to make sure
that the very end matches as well. So I am just going to go ahead and pin this
and then we will take it to the machine, so you can go ahead and stitch it. Remember we
are going to do a 5/8th inch seam allowance and I put in a ballpoint needle and also using
all purpose thread. Now when you are sewing with knit you have a couple of different options
when it comes to sewing your seams. You can either do a straight stitch or you
can also do a zigzag stitch. When you do your seam though as you are sewing you are just
going to slightly pull along the seam line as you are stitching it. So that way we maintain
some of the stretchiness. You don’t have to really yank on it, just slightly pull it
as you are sewing it. So I am going to go ahead and get started here. I actually like
doing the zigzag stitch, do a couple of back stitches because we don’t want it to come
out. And I am just going to go from the top to
the bottom of where we pinned. And the nice thing that what I like about knits is you
really don’t have to worry about the raw edges fraying, so that makes it a lot easier
to work with. After you finish stitching your seam, you are then going to take your seam
allowance and you are going to press it towards the number one piece. So this is, we are looking
at the wrong side of the fabric. Here is my seam allowance right here and I am just keeping
it close, pressing at instruction. Let’s move on to step number four. Stitch
upper front to front, press seam allowance toward front. Stitch upper left front to upper
front, press seam allowance toward upper front. So what we are going to do now is we are going
to take piece that we just sewed together. So this is one and two, I just flipped it
over so as the right side of the garment now, so the colors are flipped. So it’s going
to go 1, 2, 3, 4, that’s how we are going to stitch our pieces together. So and first we are going to do piece number
three. So I am going to go ahead and remove this pattern piece for now. And I have this
right side facing up, this right side facing up and you will notice that we have a notch
here and you have a notch here on piece number three. Now this notch is higher, this is the
one, the higher one is going to go to piece number four. This lower notch is going to
meet up with this notch right here, piece number two. So all I am going to do is flip this, so it’s
right side to right side. And I am going to pin all along the right edge matching up here,
matching the notch and then matching till the end of piece number 3. Now you will notice
that this piece, piece number three doesn’t go all the way to the end of piece number
two. What you do need to match, but to grab my pattern piece again, is at the very end
of piece number three, you will see a square with these dotted lines. This square should match up another square
that’s on the bottom of piece number two. So if those match then it’s fine, just go
ahead, pin all along the right edge from the top to the squares and you are going to go
ahead and stitch your 5/8ths inch seam allowance and go ahead and then press this open and
press your seam allowance towards this. So we are pressing towards the number one again.
So we are going to pretend like this is already stitched. So now we have 1, 2 and 3. Now I
am going to grab piece number 4 and it’s actually one of these little pieces right
here. And you will see a piece number four has a
notch and then it has like this curve section. So this part is going to go away from the
other pieces. Okay and I have a notch here, it’s kind of hard to see. This is going to
match this notch right here. So I will line this up and you will see it’s starting to
take the shape of a dress here, the front of it. So I am going to flip this. So it’s
going to be right side to right side three and four, pin, stitch your 5/8ths in the seam
allowance. And then press your seam allowance towards this direction. Steps five through seven are for view A, so
we are going to go ahead and skip to step number 8, stitch middle back to back, press
seam allowance toward the back. So for this, we are going to working with piece number
five and piece number six. Now we are working on the back of the dress. So here is number
five and you will see what we have here is sort of a long curve here and then you have
a slight curve and then you have this little notch area right here. We are going to be working on this edge here.
I am going to go ahead and remove the pattern for number five. And I have the right side
facing up. Next we have piece number six. So again you have this short little curved
area and then a slightly longer curved area. This side here below the short little curved
area right here and we have a double notch. This edge is going to match up with this edge.
So let’s go ahead and remove this one. Now this is right side facing up, right side
facing up. We want to match up this edge with this edge. So all I am going to do is take
this piece, flip it over, so right side to right side, match up, the double notches match
up the end with the end here. And then pin it all the way to the very, very end here.
Then just like before you are going to go ahead, stitch here 5/8ths into seam allowance,
open it up and you are going to press your seam allowance towards piece number five,
so this direction. Step nine, stitch upper back to back, press
seam allowance toward back. Stitch upper left back to upper back, press seam allowance toward
upper back. So now we are going to be attaching piece 7 and piece 8 to the back dress that
we are already working on. So again this is 5, 6, 7 and then we will add 8. So on this
side, on 6 you have the double notch here. On 7 you also have a double notch. So you
can go ahead, remove piece 7 right side up, right side up, we are going to take this,
flip it over, so right sides are together. We are going to match the double notch, this
top edge here, the right edge you are going to pin all along here keep pinning, matching
up these raw edges and you are going to pin for view D until you get to the square, there
should be a square at the bottom of this piece and then also on piece 6 down there at the
bottom. So I am just going to go ahead and stitch my 5/8ths inch seam allowance from
the top here, until I get to the box at the end or the square at the end of these two
pieces. And then you are going to go ahead, press
your seam allowance this way. Then you are going to grab piece 8, so we are going to
pretend like this is stitched. We are going to open this up like that. And you will see,
have a straight edge here, so that’s where we are going to fit piece number 8 now. You
see we have a straight edge here, so what we are going to do right side to right side
flip this over, so they match, line it up from top to bottom, go ahead stitch your 5/8ths
inch seam allowance, press it open making sure that now the seam allowance is pressed
towards this direction. Step ten, stitch lower front and back to front
and back at right side edge and then stitching at large circle, press seam toward middle
front and back. So we are not going to be attaching piece ten to our dress back and
our dress front. So you have two of these pieces, so one is going to be attached to
the dress back and one is going to be attached to the dress front. You just need to make
sure that you attach the right one because for, since we cut out two of these number
tens, they should be opposite. So we are going to start with the dress back. So this is my dress back right here, right
side facing up. This is more towards the bottom of the dress and what I am going to do is
I am going to match up this raw edge on piece number five. Here is one of my tens, I also
have it right side facing it up and if I am to remove this out of the way you will see
this edge right here, they line up perfectly. So all I am going to do is take this ten and
I am going to flip it. So it’s right side together, line up this raw edge go ahead pin
it, stitch my 5/8th inch seam allowance. Now you will notice if I bring in my pattern again,
at the top of this pattern number ten, you will have a circle. There should also be a
circle at the top part right here, a 5 if I was to flip this over. You can see it right
here. So this circle should match up with the circle that I have here which is kind
of hard to see in my black. So that’s where you are going to stop stitching.
So you are going to do your 5/8ths inch seam allowance from here down to the bottom. Then
go ahead, flip it out. Now your seam allowance is going to be pressed towards the number
five piece. Now here is the bottom of my dress front, so now this is piece number one. So
now I am going to take my other number ten and attach it to piece one just like I did
in the last step. So I have right side to right side, I am going to go ahead and flip
this over, line up these raw edges, again you have this circle at the end here. You are going to do your 5/8ths inch seam
allowance, press this open and you are going to press your seam allowance toward the number
one piece. Step 11 stitch lower front and back to the right side edge of lower, front
and back and then stitching at square, press seam toward lower front and back. So now we
are going to attach our last piece which is piece number 11. Now you only have to do this if you are doing
view D because this is the longer portion of the dress. So here is number ten, here
is 11 again out of 11, you should cut out two of them because we are going to attach
the 11 to each of the number ten. So that’s the dress front and the dress back. Now you
will notice on the edge of 10, we have a notch. I also have one notch on 11. So we want to
make sure that these notches match up. So I have both pieces facing right side up.
So this is just one of number, I just laid one right side facing up and sure enough the
notches are matching, the edges are matching. So this is the one that goes together. If
it was like this right side facing up and the notches on the opposite side, that means
that it goes on the other dress, either the dress back or the dress front. But this is
the right one, so all I need to do flip it over. So the right sides are together, the notches
matching up. The bottom is matching up and up here at the top is matching up. Now if
you look at the pattern piece we have another square. There is my square right there and
I should have another square on number ten. So you are going to want to make sure that
those match up from the square down to the bottom you are going to stitch your 5/8ths
inch seam allowance, go ahead and press it. and you are going to press your seam allowance
in the same direction as you press the previous one, the number ten. So for this one I am pressing it towards the
number five or the number one piece. So I am going to go ahead and stitch both of these
pieces on, both for the front and for the back of the dress. And then we’ll move onto
the next step. We can now skip ahead to step 16, stitch back and front together at shoulders
and sides. So now is the fun part, we are going to take the back of the dress and the
front of the dress and now we are going to attach them. What we are going to do is attach
them at the shoulder seams and the side seams as well. So this right here, this is the neckline,
we are not going to be stitching here and you are also not going to be stitching at
the bottom of the dress at the hemline. So this is my back, I have right side facing
up. I am going to grab the front now and I am going to lay the right side of the front
to the right side of back. So that can be right on top of each other, just have to find
the top of the dress here. All right so right side to right side. So
I am going to match up the shoulder seams here making sure that you are matching up
the edges and then also there is a notch here, the notches are matching up. And you are going
to go ahead, pin it and then you are going to stitch your 5/8ths inch seam allowance,
I am going to do the same thing over here with the shoulder and stitch across that as
well. And then you can go ahead and press these seams open once you have that. Next what we are going to do is we are going
to now match up the side seams here. So you notice you have a double notch, I have a double
notch on my front as well. I am going to match up the top the double notch and go all the
way down to the side. Now you also want to make sure that for example here, we have the
seam between the cream and the black in my example. I am going to want to make sure that
this seam here for the front is going to line up with that seam. So it’s all going to be the same and it’s
all going to be even. Go ahead and do that side. It’s going to be a lot easier once
I am able to stand up and straighten all this out, just doing the best I can right now.
All right so then 5/8ths inch seam allowance and go ahead and press that open. And then
I am going to be doing the same exact thing on this side. So matching the top here, matching
the notch I have right here and then any seams I have like the seam right here, I am going
to match up with this seam right here. And then go ahead, do your 5/8ths inch seam
allowance and press it open. Step 17 make 5/8ths of an inch narrow hem and neck edge.
So now we are going to be dealing with the neckline of the dress, so that’s going to
be this area all the way around here inside curve area and we are going to get a little
closer, so I can show you how to do a narrow hem, but you are definitely going to need
to grab your straight pins and your sewing gauge, so we are just going to get a little
closer into this area so I an show you how to make the narrow hem. We are going to be working on the inside of
the dress, you want to make sure that your dress is inside out. And what I am going to
do is all along this raw edge, again this is for the whole neckline. I am going to turn
it over from the right side to the wrong side, 5/8ths of an inch. So I am just going to measure
with my sewing gauge and you are just going to go ahead, put a pin to hold it and go all
along the whole neckline. After you finish doing this part and it’s pinned all the way
around, go ahead and press it. So you get a nice crease right up here on
top. So once you have this as a fold, you are then going to go back and I will just
remove one pin at a time. And you have this raw edge right here. We want to hide this,
so what you are going to do is you can go ahead, open it up, take you raw edge, fold
it down to the crease that you just created in the last part. So this crease right here
that’s what you are going to fold it to. And then you are just going to fold it back
into place, so you have your original crease here and then you have a new fold right here. So it’s two folds, this fold and this fold
and go ahead and put your pin into place. And you are going to do this all the way around
the neckline. So it’s going to look really nice and neat on the inside. Then I would
go ahead, press it again and what we are going to do is we are going to stitch right along
this inside fold right here, right along on the edge. We are going to now stitch down
my narrow hem, so I am just going to make sure that I am stitching right along this
fold line right here. You want to make sure that you don’t actually
cross it because then this is going to be open. So you are going to stitch on this side
of it and try to get as straight as you can. Step 18, make 5/8ths of an inch narrow hem
arm hole edges. So if you are not putting sleeves into your dress, you need to finish
your armhole edges because we need to make sure that we don’t just have raw edges here,
just like we did with the neckline. So just like we did in the previous step, you are
going to fold over your raw edge 5/8ths of an inch. You are going to press it, take the
raw edge, fold it to the crease, press it again and then stitch along the bottom fold
there and I have already actually done it to this armhole over here. Now I am going to show the steps that you
will take if you wanted to do view C of this dress which is to add sleeves to it. Now if
you do add sleeves, you can skip step 18 which is the narrow hem around the armholes because
all you are going to do is directly attach the sleeves to the armholes and you don’t
have to do any sort of hem. Now if you are doing a sleeveless dress and you have already
done the narrow hem, you can go ahead and skip to step 23. So right we are going to
go over step 19 which is ease stitch upper edge of sleeve between small circles. So here is pattern piece number 12. This is
the sleeve and you should have cut two out, if you are going to do the sleeves for it.
And you will see up here at the top we have a large circle and then we have two small
circles over here and you just have to mark the one for your size. And I actually have
it already marked on my fabric on the right side of the fabric and then what you are going
to do is you are just going to do a basting stitch from one small dot to the other dot. You are going to right through this large
circle here and go from here to here. So this is going to be the largest stitch on your
machine and you are going to be sure that you do not back stitch because we want to
make sure that we are going to be able to gather the cap of the sleeve in order to fit
it in. And you are actually doing to do two rows of stitches. You can go ahead and do
one at the 5/8ths inch seam allowance and then you can do one a little bit in front
of that one. So probably about a half inch, so 5/8ths half inch, do two rows of basting
stitches and remember not to back stitch. So the ease stitch is just a temporary stitch
so that’s why I am using black on this because you can eventually take it out. It’s just
to help you put in the sleeve. So I am going to go ahead and do this side. And then this
is at the 5/8ths inch line, I am going to get to the last circle, I can stop, pull it
out and then I am going to do another one at the half inch mark. Step 20 stitch sleeve seam. So now we are
going to do the underarm seam of this sleeve and you will see that on the long edges here,
we have a notch and you have another one on the side of the notch. So with the right side
facing up I am going to bring one edge to the other one, so the right side of the sleeve
is together. I am going to match the end of the sleeve, this point right here and then
also the notch. You can go ahead, pin this area and do your 5/8ths inch seam allowance
and press your seam open. Step 21 turn up one and a quarter sleeve hem,
base close to fold, finish raw edge, so hem in place, easing in fullness, if necessary
press. So now we are going to hem up the bottom of our sleeves. So what you are going to need
is your straight pins and your sewing gauge and you are going to mark your sewing gauge
to one and a quarter inches. So here is the bottom of my sleeve, here is my seam that
I just pressed open. So I am going to have it wrong side facing
out and I am going to turn this over one and a quarter inches. That looks about right and
I am going to go ahead and pin it around this whole parameter of the bottom sleeve of this
measurement here. Once I have done that, the next step what they want you to do is down
here where you have a fold they just want you to baste it along this folded edge here.
So you are just — it’s just a temporary stitch to hold it for you and it’s going
to be the longest stitch in your machine. You don’t have to worry about back stitching,
again it’s just a temporary stitch to hold it. So you go ahead and do your basting stitch,
now for finishing the raw edge you have a choice. If you have a serger you can serge
it, you can do sort of an overlock stitch on your sewing machine, if you have it you
can cut it with pinking shears if you want or what we have been doing like with a narrow
hem, you can just take this raw edge, turn it over, about a quarter of an inch all the
way around and then you can go ahead and stitch right next to that fold line there. So that’s what I am going to do for this
one. And then once you are all done with that you can go ahead, press the sleeves so your
creases are nice and crisp and then after the stitch you can go ahead and remove that
basting stitch. Step 22 with right sides together pin sleeve and armhole placing large circle
at shoulder seam, adjust ease, baste, easing sleeves slightly to fit below small circles.
Stitch, stitch again one quarter inch away from seam allowance, trim close to stitching,
press seam allowances flat, turn seam towards sleeve. So that sounds like a lot, but essentially
what we are doing is we are going to be sewing our sleeves into our armholes. So I am just
going to show you on one, but of course you are going to do it for both of them. Here
is my dress. I have my under arms seam here, I have my shoulder seam here and then I have
a couple of notches inside. The double notch and I have a single notch. On my other armhole
it’s essentially the same, but these notches are flipped. So the double notches on this side and the
single notches on this side. I am going to take my armhole. I am now going to switch
itself with right side out for the armhole. This dress right now I am looking at it inside
out. You are going to take the cap of your sleeve and this is the part that has the basting
stitches, the cap is going to come through the armhole and we are going to the match
the seam of the sleeve with the underarm or the side seam of the dress. But you are going to do it to the right side
of the seam not to the wrong side, where you can see the seam allowance. I am going to
grab my pins here. Now remember how we had these dots at the top of the sleeve. You should
have one, big one in the middle and then you have the two side ones right here. The large
circle gets matched to the shoulder seam at the top. Again it’s going to be at the right
side of the sleeve to the right side of the shoulder of the dress. So I am going to stick a pin into that. Your
sleeve is also going to have notches. So you see here I have a single and I have a double
notch over here. So you are going to want to make sure that it’s the same for your
dress. So I have a single notch here and a double notch here. Now if I was to stick in
the sleeve and it was flipped, this double notch was over here. It just means that I
need to put the sleeve in the other armhole. So that’s all it means because this should
be opposite. So then I am going to pin these areas. Now
on your dress, there should be small dots which match up to the small dots on your sleeve.
I have one over here and then I have one over here. Now you will notice is we are trying
to pin in the rest of the sleeve. At the cap part of the sleeve it maybe a little big and
not really fit into the armhole of the dress. That is why we did these basting stitches
or these ease stitches. So you are just going to pull them a little
bit in order to gather the area and you see how it’s getting a little wavy. That’s just
kind of cinching it in and we are not going to create any wrinkles or anything like that.
We are just trying to distribute the fullness of the sleeve, you can always just shift this
down a little bit and I would also do the same on this side until it fits into the armhole
of this sleeve. So then I am going to pin this all the way around. Once it fits I am
going to go ahead and stitch my 5/8ths inch seam allowance all the way around attaching
the sleeve in there. Once you do that stitching you are then going
to do another stitch one quarter of an inch away from that. So 5/8ths and then you can
do one at the 3/8ths inch mark. So you are going to do the two row stitches all the way
around because we are going to have a lot of wear and tear in your sleeves and you want
to make sure that you are not going to get any popped seams or anything like that, so that’s
really going to make it stay in there a while. After you finish doing the two rows of stitches,
go ahead and trim your seam allowance, you are not going to cut into your stitches, you
are just going to trim to the stitches and from then your sleeve is pretty much in, you
are just going to press it, so the seam goes to the inside of the sleeve. All right so
it’s our last step, step 23, make 5/8ths of an inch, narrow hem at lower edge. So now
we are going to do our hem and then we are done and we have a beautiful new dress to
wear. So to do this there saying is all on the bottom
of your dresses is the bottom of dress and I have it wrong side out still. What I am
going to do is fold up the bottom 5/8ths of an inch, you know just like we did before
with the neckline and with the armholes, same thing. So 5/8ths of an inch go ahead, pin
it all the way around, press it, take the raw edge, fold it to our crease, pin it again
and press it and then you just stitch right along the top. Now before you do this, it’s a good idea
to try on the dress and see if you need to cut off any of the length, if it’s the length
that you actually want it and sometimes because our bodies aren’t perfect and we are all
different it maybe that because of the way you stand or the way your body shape is and
maybe a little shorter in the back or a little shorter in the front, that it is on the other
side. So you just want to check it out and see maybe you have to hem it up a little bit
more on the front than you do in the back. So that’s why it’s always a good idea to
try on your garment before you do the hem, but then once you have that and you stitch
it up, your dress is done. At this point the dress is complete, so go ahead and remove
any basting stitches that you have and any chalk or fabric markers that’s still on your
fabric. This has been made with McCall’s pattern 6697. Enjoy your new dress. Make sure to check out our other videos and
visit ProfessorPincushion.com to view our complete library well over a 150 sewing video
tutorials. New tutorials are released regularly. So make sure to subscribe to be notified of
the next release. Thanks for watching.

67 thoughts on “Knit Maxi Dress – McCall’s Pattern 6697

  1. I think I'll make this in tan and black for my upcoming trip to Cabo San Lucas!

  2. I would love to make this dress in black and red, or just a solid black either of the two.

  3. great video! i keep thinking of different color combos i want to make this in πŸ™‚

  4. I wish you had a different color back ground so I can actually see the dress!

  5. In the description,we have a link to our blog page and it has pictures of the finished dress also.

  6. I love your tutorials, and am currently using your steampunk bustier how to to make my daughter's prom dress. Thank you for making the confusing directions much more concievable!

  7. Wonderful, like usual! I'm really happy you're doing a dress with knits since I've got a bunch that will work perfectly for this πŸ˜€

  8. Thaaaank you! You've given me "sew" much more confidence when sewing my new V1314 pattern. Your tutorials are excellent.

  9. Awesome videio! I can hardly wait to get the pattern and make this dress!! Thanks so much!!

  10. Hello.. Love your work.. I want to start sewing, but I have a serger.. Is the serger going to work for this kind of projects??

  11. Yes, I totally think you can make this dress with a serger. I'd love to see a picture when you finish. πŸ™‚

  12. You are thorough! That is so appreciated! Just started watching the videos and can't wait to watch them all! I will be trying to make this after I finish my now frustrating project. LOL I won't give up though! I like the way you explain things.

  13. McCall's also offers this pattern as a printable pattern. Then you don't even have to wait for it, you just print it yourself.

  14. joann's call's it a "classic knit" so that's pretty generic but it feels like a t-shirt knit

  15. I saw this and went back to Joann's and bought this pattren,it was 99 cents

  16. awesome! That's a great deal. I'd love to see your dress when you finish πŸ™‚

  17. When you sew, do you cut at your size line, cutting off the remaining sizes or do you cut under the pattern keeping the additional sizes

  18. I just cut it off but if you want to keep the other sizes, you can use a tracing wheel and make a copy of the pattern you want to use. Check out our tutorial on the tracing wheel to see an example.

  19. You can check your local fabric store or purchase directly from McCall's. They sell both physical patterns and digital patterns

  20. why do you transfer the marks from patten to fabric? i tried hard to find when you used it in the rest of the videos, but you still didn't mention anything about the marks. just the notches that you always say about.
    please advise. thank you.
    and ur vidoes are amazing!

  21. I used the marks for the placement of pieces 10 and 11. It helps make sure you're placing the correct piece on the front or back of the dress.

  22. I love your step by step tutorial.I do sewing myself. But i am trying to get back into sewing. looking at your video.Make me get back in to it. THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR YOUR VIDEO.I DO USE PATTERN I WISH I CAN DO WITHOUT PATTERN.

  23. I am learning soooooooo many great things from these great videos of you thank you very much for sharing your knowledge with us! Loves

  24. Hi, did you use a zig-zag stitch or straight stitch around the neckline and armholes?

  25. I am from India .during a short visit to USA in a hurry I bought few patterns .later back at home I saw that they are only for stretch fabrics,which are difficult to get.can pl help how I can alter patterns.similar ly after drafting bodice slope how can we short en the length upto empire waist?what main changes should we make.

  26. Hello, its me again. When cutting the notches do you also have to cut notches when turning the same pattern piece over…

  27. I am planning to sew a very similar pattern. The instructions suggest to use a walking foot to sew the hem, but doesn't suggest a regular foot vs. walking foot for the seams. Do you have a suggestion? Thank you.

  28. impressive very well explained, I am a beginner and I feel I can do it, I have to try it thank you!!it will be cool if you make more tutorials like this

  29. Thank you so much for taking the time to make these videos! I love your personality and your directions are very clear. I made a different view of this dress but this was very helpful. I am so glad I searched for directions to make this pattern! It led me to your channel and I've been devouring all of your tutorials πŸ™‚ Thanks again!

  30. Love all of youre infos (videos) i subcribe right away to someone like that …please do we cut pattern on the right side of the frabic (meaning we see the pieces no.) Or pattern facing down on the right side like with your piece no.3 ? I am lost a bit ….

  31. I have this PATTERN, for about two years. I LOOK SO COMPLICATED WHEN I TOOK IT OUT OF IT'S JACKET. AN THEN YOU CAME ALONGπŸ˜— AN MADE IT SO EASEY FOR ME. LOVE IT🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟

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