Big and Tall Clothing Tips & Men’s Fashion Advice , Suits & Shirts for Short Chubby Guys

Welcome back to the Gentleman’s Gazette! In
this video, we talk about big and tall clothing such as suits, shirts, but we also discuss
what men can wear if they’re shorter and have a belly. When you’re a portly man, you really have
to pay attention to your fit. The problem is, it’s very hard for you to find a good
suit that fits you. Now when you buy a suit off the rack, you have to bear in mind that
what happens when they size it just gets gradually bigger and smaller all over. That means if
you get a large suit that fits around your belly, it’s also going to be longer and wider
in the chest. While you can shorten sleeves, you cannot shorten the length of the jacket
because otherwise, everything looks disproportionate and especially the buttoning point gets too
low which makes it look like you have short legs and everything looks unfavorable. If
you are big and tall, it’s relatively easy because there are specialized stores that
provide suits for you. If that’s the case, you can go off the rack and go to your alterations
tailor afterwards. If you are not tall but have a bit of a belly, you should really invest
in a made to measure program or ideally, bespoke because you’ll get much better results. Here
are a few key points to pay attention to when you buy a suit. First of all, you want it to be single-breasted,
not a double breasted because that makes you look wider and you want to enhance the look
and make you look slimmer visually. Next up is to skip the belt. With a belt,
your trousers will slide down, it may look uncomfortable for you. If you substitute them
for suspenders, the pants will look more flattering, it will be more comfortable because they can
be a little wider and everything rests on your shoulder. You should also opt for pleats because they
give you a little more room which not only makes everything look more proportional but
it’s also more comfortable when you sit. If you really want to provide a polished look,
try to go with a vest but you have to make sure that the rise of your trousers is high
enough so the vest covers the waistband of the pants otherwise, it looks odd and you
should skip the vest. One thing I often see with suits of big men
is that their shoulder is super extended. Ideally, you should feel where your shoulder
bone is and that’s where the shoulder should end or just slightly extend. Again, this is
a problem off the rack, also the shoulders get wider then you look like a football player
and it makes you look even bigger than you actually are. At the same time, you want to
avoid having overly tight garments especially on your buttoning point, you don’t want to
see any X wrinkles because it’s a clear indication that the garment is too tight. In terms of
lapel width, I suggest you skip the skinny lapel because it just doesn’t go with your
built. Opt for something classic that’s about 3-3 1/2 inches wide. The same is true for ties, you should go for
a classic, 9cm, 3 1/2 width because it wors better with your physique. When you have a
bigger belly, you have to make sure that your tie is a little longer otherwise, it can look
quite short and more like a boy’s tie. For a selection of ties in three different lengths,
please check out our shop here. In terms of vents, you should always skip
the middle vent becuse it’s more likely to gap on your seat and then looks unfavorable.
Therefore, I suggest, you go with 2 side vents that gives you more room, looks more dapper,
and you’ll be more comfortable. In terms of colors and patterns, I suggest
you start out with solids because you don’t want to wear something that is too flashy.
Maybe a subtle stripe or some windowpane of navys, grays, dark grays would be just fine.
Really, focus more on the fit because that will flatter you overall much more. For shirts, a classic white or light blue
is a perfect place to start. Later on maybe you add some pink but always make sure to
keep it pale and never go with strong colors because it will harmonize well with your darker
suits. Shirts off the rack have the same problem as the jackets. Usually, everything scales.
That means that the collar is often way too wide and it looks very sloppy. Customized
shirts or made to measure shirts are very affordable and you can find them online starting
at 30 bucks. of course, at that price, you really have to make compromises about the
fabric quality but since fit is the most important thing, you can start there if you can’t afford
more and then slowly work your way up. When it comes to shirt collars, you want to
get a slim, classic collar. Why? because it gives you a slimming effect. On the other
hand, a widespread, cutaway collar makes you look bigger than you actually are and you
want to avoid that because you’re already a little more portly. At the same time, you
do not want to go with a very small collar because you’re a bigger guy, everything has
to be proportional. Stay away from fashiony short collars and go for something more substantial,
bigger that is not too spread. When it comes to tie knots, you should go
for something medium sized, maybe a four in hand, oriental with a thicker interlining,
or maybe a half windsor but stay clear of the double windsor because it’s too big and
makes you look even bigger. If you want to learn how to tie a tie knot, please check
out our series here. When it comes to your shirt cuffs, you want
to make sure that they fit tightly against your wrist and that you show about a quarter
to half an inch of cuff, makes you look very dapper and if you want, you can also go with
cuff links. If you want to have the luxury of made to measure or bespoke, discuss with
your tailor if you can increase the size of the buttons and the flap pockets because everything
will look more proportional and will make you look smaller. When posing for pictures, stand slightly at
an angle because it will have a slimming effect on you. Also, try to put your chin forward
and down because it avoids you having a double chin which makes you look even bigger. If
you’re a bigger guy, it is in fact more difficult to find a well fitting suit but can really
look great if you follow those tips. On top of that, you can up your wardrobe and
your look with accessories such as a nice pocketsquare, or maybe even a boutonniere.
I suggest you keep it simple and get either a pocketsquare or a boutonniere or maybe some
elegant over the calf socks. When it comes to shoes, you should invest
in a proper pair of goodyear welted oxfords or derbys. You can learn more about those,
here. This is particularly important for you because
your feet have to carry a heavier load and over the course of the day, that can be more
tiring. You want to be sure that you’re comfortable, and stylish and the same time. If you enjoyed this video, please sign up
to our email list where we have great tips on how you should improve your outfit on a
regular basis. Thank you.

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